It turns out altitude sickness is a thing! Thankfully the fog seems to have lifted this evening, in time for my trek tomorrow, but I’ve had a couple of days of feeling quite groggy. And having to take frequent breaks as I’ve breathlessly ascended the hill back up to my hostel!
As well as getting used to the altitude, I’ve also been adapting to the rhythms of backpacker life: it’s quite a contrast to last week at work! I really love my first hostel: it’s set around a traditional courtyard, with Andean artwork on the walls and a friendly, social area where I’ve spent many hours. It’s great fun meeting others on their own adventures, while sipping the free coca tea (dried coca leaves in boiling water – meant to help with the altitude)!
I explored Cusco yesterday and am back in the main square for dinner this evening, overlooking a big celebration of a local school’s birthday, featuring all kinds of colourful outfits and enthusiastic dances.
The Inca Museum next door was fascinating. The highlight was learning about the traditional musical instruments and there were a couple of really passionate Quechua folk who played lovingly-made replicas for me. A lot of the instruments imitated animal sounds, produced as they were tilted in various ways and water moved between internal chambers: incredible!
Tomorrow I will start the 5 day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu – the reason I’ve come to Peru! There was a welcome meeting this evening that has got me very excited, although I am going to need an early night as they’ll be picking me up at 4am!!


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